from tartare to the hamburger

 

you never know when you are gonna hear something that really gives new meaning to the simplest things.  the the term “tartare” actually started with genghis khan and was associated with the way his people eat beef.  wild right?  this later migrated to russia and eventually germany and so goes the story of the hamburger as we know it today. 

warriors would keep raw beef under their saddles to tenderize it,  season it with onions and eat that shit!  that is so awesome!  this was observed all the way to germany eventually becoming “steak hamburg” after they added a little heat to it and served it hot.

don’t get me wrong, i am well aware of the french application with raw egg and  all that but,  i always assumed that the french simply called it that.  and yes, i know that every culture has a way eating raw foods - mostly out of necessary - but this actually struck me as a refreshing lesson in something that i enjoy eating but mostly enjoy interpreting in my food.  this is an example of how important food anthropology is and we all owe our favorite “bill & ted” character a sense of gratitude!

   

“this photo is too sweet!”…

james beard organization

its the usuall big hitters and the ever present “how could have they not nominated him or her” but for me, this year seems very very fair. 

OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR AWARD- this category seems to be one of the tougher ones to predicate.  melman has so much to be proud (and hes still producing new blood), mario/joe are the masters but JG has quite the global empire.  this will be determined on pure definition of “restaurateur” (i have no prediction on this one)

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD  - Grant Achatz Alinea, Chicago

 BEST NEW RESTAURANT  - Central Michel Richard, Washington, DC - Chef/Owner: Michel Richard

RISING STAR CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARD - Sean Brock, McCrady’s, Charleston, SC (i called this last year)

BEST CHEF: PACIFIC (CA, HI) - David Kinch, Manresa, Los Gatos, CA

BEST CHEF: MID-ATLANTIC (DC, DE, MD, NJ, PA, VA) - Cathal Armstrong , Restaurant Eve, Alexandria, VA

BEST CHEF: MIDWEST (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI) - Colby Garrelts, Bluestem, Kansas City, MO

BEST CHEF: GREAT LAKES (IL, IN, MI, OH) - Graham Elliot Bowles , Avenues, Chicago

BEST CHEF: NEW YORK CITY(FIVE BOROUGHS) - im not sure but i do know i would love to see wylie win, although micheal anthony is doing food just as great but on different levels!  (im so envious of new yorkers, “yall” really got it all)

BEST CHEF: NORTHEAST (CT, MA, ME, NH, NY STATE, RI, VT) - Rob Evans, Hugo’s, Portland, ME

BEST CHEF: SOUTHEAST (GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, WV) - Arnaud Berthelier, The Dining Room, The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead, Atlanta

BEST CHEF: SOUTH (AL. AR, FL, LA, MS) - Douglas Rodriguez, Ola, Miami Beach, FL

BEST CHEF: SOUTHWEST (AZ, CO, NM, NV, OK, TX, UT) - Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson
Frasca Food and Wine

as much as we like awards and recognition, it doesn’t mean that much.  all these chefs know each other and discuss food ideas, farms & techniques to continue to be able to provide the best product we can to our guests!  YOU all are the real winners.  attendees enjoy seeing friends and not being in the kitchen that night - plus the parties are unreal!!!!

just a start…

rainbow swiss chard

french lavender

7 heirloom tomato varitals

these are some of my favorite garnishes

chef wes morton

i had the opportunity to eat some of wes’s food last night and it was out of sight!  caviar is always a great way to begin your meal and he delivered.  some of the best “tete” (head cheese) ive had in long time not to mention the sauce gribiche, rouget “mi-cuit”, east coast clams & scallops, grass-fed beef with yukon potato (that was just as good, if not better than protein), a few others that i will leave for yall to experience on your own.  we had  some great cheeses with kumquat & rhubarb jams and wes even joined us throughout the evening at our table to enjoy wine and simple good ‘ol chef talk.

this guys got plenty of moves and tones of passion, but i just hope that the alden hotel (and the powers that be) will allow him to do what hes great at!!!  i plan on visiting more and more especially when they let him change that menu (or at least let him remove that crab salad that i did when i was there when it was the sam houston hotel!!!!)

good luck wes…..

“spring” it!

with spring comes wonderful produce like aromatic flowers, shoots & herbs.  i love cooking during the spring season because seasonal spring items are delicate and its a wonderful scene when watching your guest’s eyebrows raise with pleasure as they discover that delicate flavor which has been brightened with the use of acids and vinegars.  spring also is great because its a chance to truly source out local ingredients - here in houston we have an abundance of sources for fresh artisan products

tafia on saturday mornings: tafia.com

onion creek in the heights, also on saturday (get there early)

eastside market - between westhimer & richmond

im an uncle again!!!!

…ronny, kayla (this women is absloutly amazing - shes a true inspiration and exhudes what being a mother is all about) & ryland

strikingly handsome little guy isn’t he?  lil over 6 lbs and he has the whole world in front him! 

looks like hes gonna have hair like his uncle - lets just hope that he doesnt grow dreadlocks when he hits his 20’s

a houston favorite & a family tradition

congratulations to bernard, kathy & paul petronella on ten years - your family is a true inspiration

paulies is celebrating 10 years in houston and they deserve all the success they have achieved.  paul has been a very close friend of mine for a very long time and i have been lucky enough to become friends with the entire petronella family.  paulies is truely one of  houstons great family owned & operated businesses and will have continued success for a very long time.  it will remain as one of houston’s favorite restaurants and of the place to score houston’s favorite cookies and shrimp b.l.t. sandwiches!

…paulies is celebrating by offering $2.50 bellinis on sundays!!!!!!!!!

http://pauliesrestaurant.com

i cant help it… via kevin cox (he gets it - thats why it is so outstanding!)

some of you know how much notre dame football means to me - but nobody knows more about the program in south bend like kevin!  his father, frank “the big dog” cox turned all of “us” into ND fans!  this man’s pure enthusiasm was inspirational!  he loved the blue & gold and not to sound to cliche,…he would sometimes say “we only watch one team in this house, right?”  anyway, these pics are from us in montreal at an irish pub watching the best notre damn game i have ever seen, michigan st. vs the irish!  i have never, ever expeirenced anything like that!  buttery nipples all around!!!!!

i recieved this email this evening from my very close friend, kevin cox…

This is someone’s online review of your basic Alfredo sauce from foodnetwork.com…it’s wonderful, every line is so perfect…

Reviewed on Feb. 4, 2004 by MISSKRISSY
You would not believe how incredible this sauce is! My husband and I made this sauce (served over fettuccine noodles) for my friend and her husband, as they just had their third child a few days ago and we figured they could use the break from cooking - they went nuts, they loved it so much! It literally tastes IDENTICAL to the sauce that they serve at the Olive Garden. I’d give this 6 stars if I could - I will NEVER buy alfredo sauce again! Be sure to use fresh shredded parmesan (available in bags in the dairy section), Kraft grated just doesn’t do it as well - and the shredded parm melts really well. ENJOY this incredible dish!

abusing the blog for the free advertising…introducing “tenacity” my personal dinner service

i have been spending some of my free time doing special dinners and private wine progressions.  i find this to be extremely therapeutic and it’s always fun to be able to on a personal level with the guests.  here are a few photos from recent dinners, this one happen to be in a beautiful home in the woodlands - i also had the opportunity to sample wines that i would never be able to enjoy, otherwise…

holidays, special events & personal supper-clubs are a perfect way to sit back and relax and become a guest in your own home!!!

i have come to the conclusion that this blog will keep houston connected to what is happening in space city but i could use it to harvest some income.  i am available for private dinners and functions for the next few months (before i get too busy with construction and operational needs)  i have always done “underground” dinners for some of my regulars (thank you nene) from the manor but why not branch out to those people who are searching for something new to impress their friends and family.  wine dinners, market menus & cooking demos are a wonderful way to bring friends and family together…

those that may be interested - let me know rrucker79@hotmail.com.   i really enjoy the personal aspect of these dinners.

antone’s is back in a big way…

i had a meeting with david nygar (preferred foodservice design & supply), who has built most the kitchens in the houston area and dallas, and he suggested i go see what phillippe had done to the new antone’s.  well, when i walked in, manuel (the man behind phillippe and who happens to be one of the best cooks i have ever has the pleasure to LEARN from) came around the line to say hello and shake my hand.  he asked whats happening and told him about this project located at *^(^%$%$()(_&(_^^*))^%)^&*(*+*  street and he said what was i hungry for?  i said whats good?  he said pizza or po’boy - i said po’boy!  shrimp or oyster he continued?  and i replied, oyster! 

this po’boy was the best po’boy i have ever had and i have eaten many.  the fries where so good and the pickled fennel in the pickled vegetables were simply stellar!  my anchor steam washed it all down and i was even able to enjoy the sun on the patio!  manuel, i know po’boy’s are not something you want to stay with but make sure before yall open something new, please make sure they have that pickling formula.  it’s almost as good as the “swedish 3.2.1″ which i learned from seth seigal gardner, who learned it from marcos & neils at aquavit, NYC!!!

excuse my french but “this shit was on-time” and i suggest you all head to west alabama